Escape to Namibia

Damaraland - Day 1 - broken down in the middle of nowhere
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The Damaraland Camp was by far the most basic camp. The general restaurant/lounge/swimming pool area was very nice but the tented ‘villa’ felt a bit rickety and lots of little things didn’t seem to work. Anyhow the staff were great and the food very good.
View attachment 107588

Late afternoon the guide didn’t want to take us to the main river bed area because he said it would be too dusty which I think in hindsight we would have preferred to do. Anyhow, we took this incredibly bone-shaking ride into the middle of nowhere but did strike it lucky. We came across 4 black rhinos which few people get to see at this camp. We sat for forty minutes just watching them with a G&T and snacks and then at 7pm they wondered off and we decided to go home.

The truck splutters into action then dies. The guide tries several times and we get a couple of feet and then die. Tom says it sounds like dirty diesel and possibly air bubbles. The guide tries to radio the office but no reply and then the kitchen many times - ‘kombuis, kombuis, kombuis, come in’ (these words will live with us forever and become the source of much hilarity). It’s clear we have little reception. We are at least 50 minutes from camp by truck. However, Tom and I are surprisingly relaxed - I don’t think much phases us anymore. The guide starts mentioning a farm further down the track so I immediately ask how far it is and he says about a kilometre. It’s going to be getting dark soon and I suggest we walk. The guide sounds relieved. So off we go at 7.20pm.
View attachment 107589

Much to my surprise, he takes no form of ‘provisions’. No torch, no water from the truck, no nothing. I have my water bottle and my iphone so I know I will have some form of light. The going wasn’t too bad and we had the tracks of the road to guide us but it was getting pretty dark by the time we were close and I can tell you that there were lions and hyenas out there although not too many in this area. We finally get to the ‘farm’ 46 minutes later in the pitch black. A small house with two lone guys and an alarmed area for the livestock to keep out the lions. They very kindly brought out chairs for us to sit on and we sat in the dark while the guide tries to get camp ‘kombuis, kombuis, kombuis - Doris waar is jy?’ (Doris where are you). Finally we get a response. To cut a long story short they get another truck to us along the main road which arrives about 50 minutes later and about 9.30pm we are back at the camp. The DH, being an accountant, has done the sums and reckons, according to his stride and the time it took us, the walk was about 3 kms.
View attachment 107590
After a quick supper and back in our pit, we discover no water. Urgh. We traipse down to another tented room with all our paraphernalia, get a shower and then go back and collapse into bed, pretty glad we are in one piece but also quite amused.
Blimey Ann, you were lucky! Did the guide have a gun? To make a noise if anything came too close? From what you say, he doesn’t seem like a person you could rely on in an emergency - I’m thinking of the no torch, no water etc. I can see, from now on, you and your DH will be shouting kombuis, kombuis to each other, closely followed by Doris waar is jy?:lmao: This part of your holiday has certainly been an experience you will never forget. Amazing.
 
Blimey Ann, you were lucky! Did the guide have a gun? To make a noise if anything came too close? From what you say, he doesn’t seem like a person you could rely on in an emergency - I’m thinking of the no torch, no water etc. I can see, from now on, you and your DH will be shouting kombuis, kombuis to each other, closely followed by Doris waar is jy?:lmao: This part of your holiday has certainly been an experience you will never forget. Amazing.
No, he had no gun. If we had been in Etosha it would have been an altogether different story. They even took us to our rooms with a gun. I have to say when we went out early the next day, a spotted hyena, a lucky sighting, trotted across our path and he was a big boy! I wouldn’t have felt so relaxed if I had know he was around!

Yes, I can see if we ever have any form of communication problem the old kombuis phrase with the radio against our ear is going to be our first reaction. :lol: I think we were both a bit smug that if it had been anybody else in his truck the guide would have been sweating buckets. I’m not sure how many other people would have been happy to just get out and walk. Tom questioned afterwards if it was the most sensible option but personally I couldn’t see any other. It would have taken the camp hours to find us without knowing our location and impossible along the rough road we took at night and I personally think it would have been more dangerous sitting all night in the pitch black dark in an open vehicle! If it had been a closed vehicle like some of the others we have had, I would have been more happy to sit tight.
 
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Kayaking with Seals in Walvis Bay

This wasn’t in our original itinerary but I read about it on Tripadvisor and had it included. What a highlight! Would so do this one again.

We were picked up early in the morning from Swakopmund and driven to Walvis Bay, about 40 minutes away, where we met up with Jeanne Meintjies who started running her ‘kayaking with seals’ venture 20 years ago. Everybody said that it would never take off and now there are 2 other companies also doing it which she says is good because she cannot keep up with the demand.

She was such a lovely person and a keen bird watcher too and this area is simply brimming with sea birds. So much to my delight we got a bird watching tour too! For the twitchers in the group, the highlights for me were the Chestnut Banded Plover, Damara Tern, Great White Pelican and the Greater and Lesser Flamingos.

She also told us all about how the salt pans work and the salt industry. Fascinating.

Finally, she introduced us to the jackels which live in the area and feed off the dead baby seals.

Pics edited in Snapseed

Flamingos on the way with a salt truck in the distance
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The vast openness of the beach
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One of the little jackals
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A wreak on the way
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Tom waiting to get into the kayak
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Early morning it’s swim school - the mothers take the baby seals out to teach them to swim and they are so cute. Curious as anything but shy. They love noise and the more noise you make the more they come to have a look.
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Harvesting the salt on the way back past the salt pans
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OH. EM. GEE. You had me swooning just reading the title...!!!! WOW. What an amazing experience. That little jackal!!! Soooooo cute!! :inlove: And the seals!! :inlove: Amazing to me that even their beaches are vast and empty.
 
Damaraland - Day 1 - broken down in the middle of nowhere
View attachment 107586
View attachment 107587

The Damaraland Camp was by far the most basic camp. The general restaurant/lounge/swimming pool area was very nice but the tented ‘villa’ felt a bit rickety and lots of little things didn’t seem to work. Anyhow the staff were great and the food very good.
View attachment 107588

Late afternoon the guide didn’t want to take us to the main river bed area because he said it would be too dusty which I think in hindsight we would have preferred to do. Anyhow, we took this incredibly bone-shaking ride into the middle of nowhere but did strike it lucky. We came across 4 black rhinos which few people get to see at this camp. We sat for forty minutes just watching them with a G&T and snacks and then at 7pm they wondered off and we decided to go home.

The truck splutters into action then dies. The guide tries several times and we get a couple of feet and then die. Tom says it sounds like dirty diesel and possibly air bubbles. The guide tries to radio the office but no reply and then the kitchen many times - ‘kombuis, kombuis, kombuis, come in’ (these words will live with us forever and become the source of much hilarity). It’s clear we have little reception. We are at least 50 minutes from camp by truck. However, Tom and I are surprisingly relaxed - I don’t think much phases us anymore. The guide starts mentioning a farm further down the track so I immediately ask how far it is and he says about a kilometre. It’s going to be getting dark soon and I suggest we walk. The guide sounds relieved. So off we go at 7.20pm.
View attachment 107589

Much to my surprise, he takes no form of ‘provisions’. No torch, no water from the truck, no nothing. I have my water bottle and my iphone so I know I will have some form of light. The going wasn’t too bad and we had the tracks of the road to guide us but it was getting pretty dark by the time we were close and I can tell you that there were lions and hyenas out there although not too many in this area. We finally get to the ‘farm’ 46 minutes later in the pitch black. A small house with two lone guys and an alarmed area for the livestock to keep out the lions. They very kindly brought out chairs for us to sit on and we sat in the dark while the guide tries to get camp ‘kombuis, kombuis, kombuis - Doris waar is jy?’ (Doris where are you). Finally we get a response. To cut a long story short they get another truck to us along the main road which arrives about 50 minutes later and about 9.30pm we are back at the camp. The DH, being an accountant, has done the sums and reckons, according to his stride and the time it took us, the walk was about 3 kms.
View attachment 107590
After a quick supper and back in our pit, we discover no water. Urgh. We traipse down to another tented room with all our paraphernalia, get a shower and then go back and collapse into bed, pretty glad we are in one piece but also quite amused.
Holy crap, what an adventure!!! :eek: Knowing there were lions and hyenas out in the dark was the scariest part to me. Maybe your calmness was helped by the G&Ts... :lol: I think the guide being so calm an unperturbed wound have helped me...he must not have thought there was much danger (or he’s a good actor!) I’d say you guys need to get some sort of discount/compensation for all this, at the very least.
 
Tom questioned afterwards if it was the most sensible option but personally I couldn’t see any other. It would have taken the camp hours to find us without knowing our location and impossible along the rough road we took at night and I personally think it would have been more dangerous sitting all night in the pitch black dark in an open vehicle! If it had been a closed vehicle like some of the others we have had, I would have been more happy to sit tight.
I absolutely agree with you.... I would NOT have stayed outside in the middle of nowhere in the pitch black.
 
Kayaking with Seals in Walvis Bay

This wasn’t in our original itinerary but I read about it on Tripadvisor and had it included. What a highlight! Would so do this one again.

We were picked up early in the morning from Swakopmund and driven to Walvis Bay, about 40 minutes away, where we met up with Jeanne Meintjies who started running her ‘kayaking with seals’ venture 20 years ago. Everybody said that it would never take off and now there are 2 other companies also doing it which she says is good because she cannot keep up with the demand.

She was such a lovely person and a keen bird watcher too and this area is simply brimming with sea birds. So much to my delight we got a bird watching tour too! For the twitchers in the group, the highlights for me were the Chestnut Banded Plover, Damara Tern, Great White Pelican and the Greater and Lesser Flamingos.

She also told us all about how the salt pans work and the salt industry. Fascinating.

Finally, she introduced us to the jackels which live in the area and feed off the dead baby seals.

Pics edited in Snapseed

Flamingos on the way with a salt truck in the distance
View attachment 107539

The vast openness of the beach
View attachment 107538

One of the little jackals
View attachment 107542

A wreak on the way
View attachment 107540

Tom waiting to get into the kayak
View attachment 107541

Early morning it’s swim school - the mothers take the baby seals out to teach them to swim and they are so cute. Curious as anything but shy. They love noise and the more noise you make the more they come to have a look.
View attachment 107543
View attachment 107544

Harvesting the salt on the way back past the salt pans
View attachment 107545

Aha! Kayaking! Any chance you get, kayaking is always worthwhile. Great seal pics, too.
 
Damaraland - Day 1 - broken down in the middle of nowhere
View attachment 107586
View attachment 107587

The Damaraland Camp was by far the most basic camp. The general restaurant/lounge/swimming pool area was very nice but the tented ‘villa’ felt a bit rickety and lots of little things didn’t seem to work. Anyhow the staff were great and the food very good.
View attachment 107588

Late afternoon the guide didn’t want to take us to the main river bed area because he said it would be too dusty which I think in hindsight we would have preferred to do. Anyhow, we took this incredibly bone-shaking ride into the middle of nowhere but did strike it lucky. We came across 4 black rhinos which few people get to see at this camp. We sat for forty minutes just watching them with a G&T and snacks and then at 7pm they wondered off and we decided to go home.

The truck splutters into action then dies. The guide tries several times and we get a couple of feet and then die. Tom says it sounds like dirty diesel and possibly air bubbles. The guide tries to radio the office but no reply and then the kitchen many times - ‘kombuis, kombuis, kombuis, come in’ (these words will live with us forever and become the source of much hilarity). It’s clear we have little reception. We are at least 50 minutes from camp by truck. However, Tom and I are surprisingly relaxed - I don’t think much phases us anymore. The guide starts mentioning a farm further down the track so I immediately ask how far it is and he says about a kilometre. It’s going to be getting dark soon and I suggest we walk. The guide sounds relieved. So off we go at 7.20pm.
View attachment 107589

Much to my surprise, he takes no form of ‘provisions’. No torch, no water from the truck, no nothing. I have my water bottle and my iphone so I know I will have some form of light. The going wasn’t too bad and we had the tracks of the road to guide us but it was getting pretty dark by the time we were close and I can tell you that there were lions and hyenas out there although not too many in this area. We finally get to the ‘farm’ 46 minutes later in the pitch black. A small house with two lone guys and an alarmed area for the livestock to keep out the lions. They very kindly brought out chairs for us to sit on and we sat in the dark while the guide tries to get camp ‘kombuis, kombuis, kombuis - Doris waar is jy?’ (Doris where are you). Finally we get a response. To cut a long story short they get another truck to us along the main road which arrives about 50 minutes later and about 9.30pm we are back at the camp. The DH, being an accountant, has done the sums and reckons, according to his stride and the time it took us, the walk was about 3 kms.
View attachment 107590
After a quick supper and back in our pit, we discover no water. Urgh. We traipse down to another tented room with all our paraphernalia, get a shower and then go back and collapse into bed, pretty glad we are in one piece but also quite amused.

Great story. One I bet you will always remember.
 
Blimey Ann, you were lucky! Did the guide have a gun? To make a noise if anything came too close? From what you say, he doesn’t seem like a person you could rely on in an emergency - I’m thinking of the no torch, no water etc. I can see, from now on, you and your DH will be shouting kombuis, kombuis to each other, closely followed by Doris waar is jy?:lmao: This part of your holiday has certainly been an experience you will never forget. Amazing.

The guide is experienced. He knows he just has to be able to run a bit faster than the rest to avoid the lions.
 
Next Day in Damaraland

I think the staff were surprised that we were still keen to go out early the next day on a game drive despite the previous night’s ordeal but like all the other places we only had one full day here and wanted to make the most of it. We had missed a special supper that they had organised the night before and so they clearly wanted to give us a special breakfast which we realised later. We were up early ready at 6am but for some reason they took a while to get the truck ready until once we were off it was clear why - they had organised a barbecue breakfast in the middle of nowhere. It was very kind and we showed our appreciation but to be honest we would have preferred to get on the road and see the early morning birds and game.

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I took a timelapse while we were having breakfast and this is a still from it edited in Snapseed. It looks like I plonked the little bird in the middle but he was hopping around in front oblivious of my camera. Not much else out there I can assure you!
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Driving through the desert to the water bed where there is a strong underground water system. A video still.
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Now the vegetation starts getting really pretty:
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WOWZA, next minute you are in this little oasis that could be anywhere else but here! The government have relocated some farmers here which has caused all sorts of problems with farmed animals and wild animals but I won’t go into it now! This explains the presence of the cattle. I have purposely not edited this image at all so that you can get a feel for the greenery.
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We spent ages going around and around tracking some elephants. In the meantime I was seeing tons of birds and was far more interested in identifying these than finding the elephants as I have seen elephants many times before but not these birds. It was clear that our guide was a little shaky on some of the birds so I resigned myself to being at the mercy of the situation. We did eventually find the elephants which were some distance way and I gave a sigh of relief that we could finally just take it easy and enjoy the sights.
 
Next Day in Damaraland

I think the staff were surprised that we were still keen to go out early the next day on a game drive despite the previous night’s ordeal but like all the other places we only had one full day here and wanted to make the most of it. We had missed a special supper that they had organised the night before and so they clearly wanted to give us a special breakfast which we realised later. We were up early ready at 6am but for some reason they took a while to get the truck ready until once we were off it was clear why - they had organised a barbecue breakfast in the middle of nowhere. It was very kind and we showed our appreciation but to be honest we would have preferred to get on the road and see the early morning birds and game.

View attachment 107695

I took a timelapse while we were having breakfast and this is a still from it edited in Snapseed. It looks like I plonked the little bird in the middle but he was hopping around in front oblivious of my camera. Not much else out there I can assure you!
View attachment 107696

Driving through the desert to the water bed where there is a strong underground water system. A video still.
View attachment 107697

Now the vegetation starts getting really pretty:
View attachment 107698

WOWZA, next minute you are in this little oasis that could be anywhere else but here! The government have relocated some farmers here which has caused all sorts of problems with farmed animals and wild animals but I won’t go into it now! This explains the presence of the cattle. I have purposely not edited this image at all so that you can get a feel for the greenery.
View attachment 107699

We spent ages going around and around tracking some elephants. In the meantime I was seeing tons of birds and was far more interested in identifying these than finding the elephants as I have seen elephants many times before but not these birds. It was clear that our guide was a little shaky on some of the birds so I resigned myself to being at the mercy of the situation. We did eventually find the elephants which were some distance way and I gave a sigh of relief that we could finally just take it easy and enjoy the sights.
Such contrasts!
 
Next Day in Damaraland

I think the staff were surprised that we were still keen to go out early the next day on a game drive despite the previous night’s ordeal but like all the other places we only had one full day here and wanted to make the most of it. We had missed a special supper that they had organised the night before and so they clearly wanted to give us a special breakfast which we realised later. We were up early ready at 6am but for some reason they took a while to get the truck ready until once we were off it was clear why - they had organised a barbecue breakfast in the middle of nowhere. It was very kind and we showed our appreciation but to be honest we would have preferred to get on the road and see the early morning birds and game.

View attachment 107695

I took a timelapse while we were having breakfast and this is a still from it edited in Snapseed. It looks like I plonked the little bird in the middle but he was hopping around in front oblivious of my camera. Not much else out there I can assure you!
View attachment 107696

Driving through the desert to the water bed where there is a strong underground water system. A video still.
View attachment 107697

Now the vegetation starts getting really pretty:
View attachment 107698

WOWZA, next minute you are in this little oasis that could be anywhere else but here! The government have relocated some farmers here which has caused all sorts of problems with farmed animals and wild animals but I won’t go into it now! This explains the presence of the cattle. I have purposely not edited this image at all so that you can get a feel for the greenery.
View attachment 107699

We spent ages going around and around tracking some elephants. In the meantime I was seeing tons of birds and was far more interested in identifying these than finding the elephants as I have seen elephants many times before but not these birds. It was clear that our guide was a little shaky on some of the birds so I resigned myself to being at the mercy of the situation. We did eventually find the elephants which were some distance way and I gave a sigh of relief that we could finally just take it easy and enjoy the sights.
Such a remarkable change in scenery!
 
We arrived in Windhoek on the Sunday and didn't see much more than the hotel. We did drive through the town to the small airport the next day and what really struck me was how well maintained all the buildings were and how clean it seemed to be.

We flew in a 10 seater to our first main destination, Sossusvlei, the land of the red sand dunes and Oryx.

Images from the sky edited in Snapseed and put together in Diptic. The middle-right image is a view of the lodge we stayed in.
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[emoji7]
 
Next was Hoanib Skeleton Coast. A big occasion for the DH who turned the big SIX-O.

I had expected the camp to be near the coast but it was actually a bone shaking four hour drive away so we gave that trip a miss. However, game drives along the dried bed of the Hoanib river provided sights of the best game of the whole trip. The camp with the units covered in tent structures also made it unique. Plenty of wild animals around the camp and we were escorted from dinner to our rooms when it was dark.

None of these images have been edited.

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The white balance for this image wasn’t quite right but it does amaze me how the animals melt into their environment.
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Oryx. In this image you can see the sides of the river bed.
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Next was Hoanib Skeleton Coast. A big occasion for the DH who turned the big SIX-O.

I had expected the camp to be near the coast but it was actually a bone shaking four hour drive away so we gave that trip a miss. However, game drives along the dried bed of the Hoanib river provided sights of the best game of the whole trip. The camp with the units covered in tent structures also made it unique. Plenty of wild animals around the camp and we were escorted from dinner to our rooms when it was dark.

None of these images have been edited.

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The white balance for this image wasn’t quite right but it does amaze me how the animals melt into their environment.
View attachment 107847

Oryx. In this image you can see the sides of the river bed.
View attachment 107850
Those tents are amazing. Looking inside, with doors and chimneys, it’s hard to believe the walls are canvas. Incredible. And close ups of the animals. They don’t seem too bothered, although the elephants look like they’re getting a wiggle on.:D
 
Next was Hoanib Skeleton Coast. A big occasion for the DH who turned the big SIX-O.

I had expected the camp to be near the coast but it was actually a bone shaking four hour drive away so we gave that trip a miss. However, game drives along the dried bed of the Hoanib river provided sights of the best game of the whole trip. The camp with the units covered in tent structures also made it unique. Plenty of wild animals around the camp and we were escorted from dinner to our rooms when it was dark.

None of these images have been edited.

View attachment 107846

View attachment 107849

View attachment 107851

View attachment 107848

The white balance for this image wasn’t quite right but it does amaze me how the animals melt into their environment.
View attachment 107847

Oryx. In this image you can see the sides of the river bed.
View attachment 107850

Wow! The animals are incredible! And your quarters, charming.
 
Next was Hoanib Skeleton Coast. A big occasion for the DH who turned the big SIX-O.

I had expected the camp to be near the coast but it was actually a bone shaking four hour drive away so we gave that trip a miss. However, game drives along the dried bed of the Hoanib river provided sights of the best game of the whole trip. The camp with the units covered in tent structures also made it unique. Plenty of wild animals around the camp and we were escorted from dinner to our rooms when it was dark.

None of these images have been edited.

View attachment 107846

View attachment 107849

View attachment 107851

View attachment 107848

The white balance for this image wasn’t quite right but it does amaze me how the animals melt into their environment.
View attachment 107847

Oryx. In this image you can see the sides of the river bed.
View attachment 107850
Very nice place you stayed and the wildlife...fantastic shots, all of them!
 
Next was Hoanib Skeleton Coast. A big occasion for the DH who turned the big SIX-O.

I had expected the camp to be near the coast but it was actually a bone shaking four hour drive away so we gave that trip a miss. However, game drives along the dried bed of the Hoanib river provided sights of the best game of the whole trip. The camp with the units covered in tent structures also made it unique. Plenty of wild animals around the camp and we were escorted from dinner to our rooms when it was dark.

None of these images have been edited.

View attachment 107846

View attachment 107849

View attachment 107851

View attachment 107848

The white balance for this image wasn’t quite right but it does amaze me how the animals melt into their environment.
View attachment 107847

Oryx. In this image you can see the sides of the river bed.
View attachment 107850
WOW!!! Come on!!!! I can’t believe all those animals were just right around the camp. And the tents are amazing. This is heaven to me. :inlove:
 
WOW!!! Come on!!!! I can’t believe all those animals were just right around the camp. And the tents are amazing. This is heaven to me. :inlove:
No, I was really meaning mainly at night there are animals around the camp. These animal pics were all taken in the river bed about 15 min drive. The actual rooms are enclosed and have large glass windows. There was a massive crack in the glass of one of our windows. Our ‘tent’ was the furthest away from the general lounge seen above and the week before an Oryx saw it’s reflection in the window and butted and broke it so they do occasionally stray close during the day!
 
ETOSHA

The night before we arrived in Etosha they had a massive downpour of rain. The next day it was touch and go as to whether they could land on the airstrip what with the clouds but fortunately they could so we were spared a long drive to the camp from another airfield.
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A video still
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This camp was the furthest north with much more rainfall so the scenery was completely different. Lush green with lots of vegetation. Normally this would be the place to see lots of wildlife but with the massive 70mm overnight, there was no longer any need for the animals to come to the water hole right in front of the camp and it was deserted. We didn’t see many of the big 5 here and most people would have been sorely disappointed but the bird life was prolific and with such an excellent guide who totally knew his birds we were in our element. Tom got some awesome shots of birds with his DSLR and me watching with my bins and recording them all on a scrap of paper. Over 70 in the end. I didn’t quite get the names of a couple and didn’t record a few if I felt I didn’t get a good enough sighting. Just missed getting a good look at a little owl.

Under the clouds approaching the airstrip
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The camp was in it’s own private game reserve but it is just on the edge of the Etosha game reserve run by the government so we took trips into the main game reserve on the second day. However, we saw most of the birds in our own game reserve.
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Springbok
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Jackal
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This tame Monteiro’s Hornbill sits on shop window sill and taps on the window making a hellova racket. Taken from a video still. We saw four species of hornbill. Swoon.
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