Damaraland - Day 1 - broken down in the middle of nowhere
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The Damaraland Camp was by far the most basic camp. The general restaurant/lounge/swimming pool area was very nice but the tented ‘villa’ felt a bit rickety and lots of little things didn’t seem to work. Anyhow the staff were great and the food very good.
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Late afternoon the guide didn’t want to take us to the main river bed area because he said it would be too dusty which I think in hindsight we would have preferred to do. Anyhow, we took this incredibly bone-shaking ride into the middle of nowhere but did strike it lucky. We came across 4 black rhinos which few people get to see at this camp. We sat for forty minutes just watching them with a G&T and snacks and then at 7pm they wondered off and we decided to go home.
The truck splutters into action then dies. The guide tries several times and we get a couple of feet and then die. Tom says it sounds like dirty diesel and possibly air bubbles. The guide tries to radio the office but no reply and then the kitchen many times - ‘kombuis, kombuis, kombuis, come in’ (these words will live with us forever and become the source of much hilarity). It’s clear we have little reception. We are at least 50 minutes from camp by truck. However, Tom and I are surprisingly relaxed - I don’t think much phases us anymore. The guide starts mentioning a farm further down the track so I immediately ask how far it is and he says about a kilometre. It’s going to be getting dark soon and I suggest we walk. The guide sounds relieved. So off we go at 7.20pm.
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Much to my surprise, he takes no form of ‘provisions’. No torch, no water from the truck, no nothing. I have my water bottle and my iphone so I know I will have some form of light. The going wasn’t too bad and we had the tracks of the road to guide us but it was getting pretty dark by the time we were close and I can tell you that there were lions and hyenas out there although not too many in this area. We finally get to the ‘farm’ 46 minutes later in the pitch black. A small house with two lone guys and an alarmed area for the livestock to keep out the lions. They very kindly brought out chairs for us to sit on and we sat in the dark while the guide tries to get camp ‘kombuis, kombuis, kombuis - Doris waar is jy?’ (Doris where are you). Finally we get a response. To cut a long story short they get another truck to us along the main road which arrives about 50 minutes later and about 9.30pm we are back at the camp. The DH, being an accountant, has done the sums and reckons, according to his stride and the time it took us, the walk was about 3 kms.
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After a quick supper and back in our pit, we discover no water. Urgh. We traipse down to another tented room with all our paraphernalia, get a shower and then go back and collapse into bed, pretty glad we are in one piece but also quite amused.