FundyBrian’s Explorations

You remember the plain white Apple branch flute I showed in a photo recently? I was getting ready to put on an oil finish to protect the wood but there were a couple of dark spots I wanted to bleach a bit if I could. Well big surprise! The grain pattern I couldn’t even see popped up dramatically. So I bleached the whole flute but I was worried the effect would fade so I put on some wood stain and it looks much the same as the bleach except not quite as red.
Here’s a close up of one area.
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This might be just a bit more yellow than real life, under indoor lighting. Remember, I couldn’t see the grain at all before this.
Very nice. I bet you’ll like the final effect.
 
My Apple Branch Flute stained and overcoated.
OK, I should have taken the time to iron my background fabric but I was in a rush.
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Ummm. Maybe some tongue-in-cheek humour involved. Often Native American Flutes are decorated with leather lace and maybe a feather, but since this is an Apple branch flute I thought maybe an apple leaf instead of a feather. And then, of course, it needed an Apple, scrounged from an old Apple monitor I took apart and junked. You can tell it’s old because it is real beautifully chromed and polished metal, not just plastic.
I’m very pleased with the way the woodgrain appeared with the bleaching and then staining.
And here’s another view of the bird totem that appeared in a previous photo.
I still may give the flute another rub down and another coat of protective finish.
 
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That’s gorgeous, Brian. I love the woodgrain, especially because it’s so natural looking. You did good. How’s it sound?
 
FundyBrian Brian, have you ever tried using an infrared filter with an iPhone. I’ve just seen some amazing pics with an ordinary camera. Reading up about it, you would obviously need to have a manual app, white balance adjustment and tripod. Do you think you could get decent results?
 
FundyBrian Brian, have you ever tried using an infrared filter with an iPhone. I’ve just seen some amazing pics with an ordinary camera. Reading up about it, you would obviously need to have a manual app, white balance adjustment and tripod. Do you think you could get decent results?
Yes I have experimented with infrared in the past. B&W infrared film and partially infrared colour slide film. The results were very exciting. I still have some of the special filters. The camera sensor on a digital camera is quite capable of seeing light well beyond the normal visible range but camera makers add UV and IR cutoff filters in front of the sensor to keep the pictures looking more like how humans see the world. It is “simply” a matter of removing those cutoff filters to give your camera much greater infrared capabilities. Several places can custom modify your camera for regular IR or Astro photography. The problem is that it then becomes a special purpose camera not useful for regular photography. This is a good use for your old camera when you buy a new one.
You can still get a sliver of IR with a regular camera using a visible light cutoff filter - which looks opaque. But for the real thing a modified camera is the best option.
 
Yes I have experimented with infrared in the past. B&W infrared film and partially infrared colour slide film. The results were very exciting. I still have some of the special filters. The camera sensor on a digital camera is quite capable of seeing light well beyond the normal visible range but camera makers add UV and IR cutoff filters in front of the sensor to keep the pictures looking more like how humans see the world. It is “simply” a matter of removing those cutoff filters to give your camera much greater infrared capabilities. Several places can custom modify your camera for regular IR or Astro photography. The problem is that it then becomes a special purpose camera not useful for regular photography. This is a good use for your old camera when you buy a new one.
You can still get a sliver of IR with a regular camera using a visible light cutoff filter - which looks opaque. But for the real thing a modified camera is the best option.
I've just bought an infrared filter which will fit on my Moment tele lens - not an expensive one - just to see if I can get some interesting shots. I'm sure it will need quite a lot of manipulation after and from suggestions you need to set up your shot and get the focus right before applying the filter because seeing thru the filter is hard. Who knows, might get interesting pics. Foliage seems the thing to include with water.
 
I've just bought an infrared filter which will fit on my Moment tele lens - not an expensive one - just to see if I can get some interesting shots. I'm sure it will need quite a lot of manipulation after and from suggestions you need to set up your shot and get the focus right before applying the filter because seeing thru the filter is hard. Who knows, might get interesting pics. Foliage seems the thing to include with water.
It will be interesting to see what you get.
 
Overnight we had some rain and this morning was very calm so I went out to play.
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I started out photographing with my DSLR and afterwards with my iPhone. Right away I had a yearning for more detail so I made this picture of a Purple Avens flower with my Moment Macro with Focus Stacking using CameraPixels. I made a set of 20 DNG RAW images and developed them in Affinity Photo on iPad. One thing I thought was interesting. You can see how each of the stamen has a little zigzag near the end. I presume this it to help the seeds latch onto passers by.

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This is what one of the focus stack frames looked like. This is the amount of depth you get without focus stacking.

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Since I had just read Anne’s message about Spectrel Arts going free at the moment I went and downloaded it again to try it again.
 
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Overnight we had some rain an this morning was very calm so I went out to play.
View attachment 147233
I started out photographing with my DSLR and afterwards with my iPhone. Right away I had a yearning for more detail so I made this picture of a Purple Avens flower with my Moment Macro with Focus Stacking using CameraPixels. I made a set of 20 DNG RAW images and developed them in Affinity Photo on iPad. One thing I thought was interesting. You can see how each of the stamen has a little zigzag near the end. I presume this it to help the seeds latch onto passers by.

View attachment 147232
This is what one of the focus stack frames looked like. This is the amount of depth you get without focus stacking.

View attachment 147234
Since I had just read Anne’s message about Spectrel Arts going free abt the moment I went and downloaded it again to try it again.
Brian, do you have to move the iPhone fractionally each time to get a different focus with the macro lens or is CameraPixels able to get different focus points at the same distance? I am very envious of your great focus stacking pics.
 
Overnight we had some rain an this morning was very calm so I went out to play.
View attachment 147233
I started out photographing with my DSLR and afterwards with my iPhone. Right away I had a yearning for more detail so I made this picture of a Purple Avens flower with my Moment Macro with Focus Stacking using CameraPixels. I made a set of 20 DNG RAW images and developed them in Affinity Photo on iPad. One thing I thought was interesting. You can see how each of the stamen has a little zigzag near the end. I presume this it to help the seeds latch onto passers by.

View attachment 147232
This is what one of the focus stack frames looked like. This is the amount of depth you get without focus stacking.

View attachment 147234
Since I had just read Anne’s message about Spectrel Arts going free abt the moment I went and downloaded it again to try it again.
the first image is truly amazing Brian.
 
Brian, do you have to move the iPhone fractionally each time to get a different focus with the macro lens or is CameraPixels able to get different focus points at the same distance? I am very envious of your great focus stacking pics.
CameraPixels does focus bracketing. You select how many images you want it to make. I generally use 20 (I select RAW and ISO 20 for the least noise and manually adjust the shutter speed for the exposure). Close-ups require more than landscapes. You set the near and far range you want and tap the shutter. For close-ups you end up using the entire focusing range possible. It starts with a 3 second time delay to let any vibrations die down then you see the pictures being made and the focus being incrementally adjusted with each photo. Interesting to watch.
 
I've just bought an infrared filter which will fit on my Moment tele lens - not an expensive one - just to see if I can get some interesting shots. I'm sure it will need quite a lot of manipulation after and from suggestions you need to set up your shot and get the focus right before applying the filter because seeing thru the filter is hard. Who knows, might get interesting pics. Foliage seems the thing to include with water.
Did the article mention anything about the different focus for IR? IR light, being so far from the wavelengths of light our lenses were made for, has a different focus position. Some lenses have the IR mark on them but most do not. It isn’t likely to be a problem with the phone considering the depth of field it has but it is something to keep in mind if you find the focus isn’t sharp. I can’t remember if you have to focus closer or farther.
 
I find now I have hundreds of photos accumulating on my iPhone and no time to edit them. Especially the more complicated ones I move to my iPad to work on.
This is more of a documentary photo with a story.
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Fishing boats at Alma Wharf can only come and go during a 3 hour window of opportunity around the Bay of Fundy high tide. If you miss that then you are either stuck at the wharf or will have to anchor off shore until the tide comes in. At Alma Beach the tide goes out a full mile from “shore”, a vertical height of about 12.5 metres. Notice I’m mixing Metric and Imperial measurement to suit the numbers I remember. Let’s see, that’s 1.6km, and 41 feet.
On top of that the cycle of the tide follows the moon, so high tide is a different time every day by about 50 minutes. So much for your 9 to 5 work schedule. And when you go out you are committed for 10 or 12 hours until you can come back. No 6 hour work days here for sure.

In the past couple of years a huge amount of money has been put into increasing the shelter around Alma Wharf. The main breakwater (out of sight on the right) has been doubled in size and length and a new smaller one added to provide shelter from the other side. Now what is happening is that without the current that used to flow around the wharf it is filling with sediment. In this picture an excavator is digging out close to 3 feet, about a metre of muddy sediment from around the wharf that was accumulated in only 2 years. I’m not sure who is paying for the dredging work. It’s a good thing that lobsters and scallops are fetching a high price these days. That extra 3 feet makes a big difference to boats who are shaving time coming and going with the tide.

With all the rocks piled all around the Alma harbour isn’t as attractive as it used to be, plus, the views from the local restaurants are greatly reduced because you can’t see over the top of the breakwater to the bay. You can no longer see the tide coming in across the beach or the nearby headland unless you get up higher and closer to the breakwaters. Here I’m standing on the wharf.

This photo also illustrates a common problem with photos at the shore. The actual water level of this photo is straight but the land tapers in height due to distance so it makes the horizon look crooked. But if you scroll the picture up to the edge of you device screen you can see the water is level, yet the picture still looks crooked.
 
We have escaped!
Kayaks on the roof of the car and off we go.
The weather forecast indicated a rain shower in the evening so we wanted to arrive in time to get our tent up before the rain. Then some wandering around.
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Dusk at the shore. Inch Arran beach and the Bon Ami Rocks in the background.
Early next morning, very still with some fog coming and going.
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While waiting for miss Fabulous to arise.
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I have been doing some long exposure photos with my mirrorless camera and that has carried over to my iPhone photography. With the iPhone NightCap Pro seems to give the best results.
It certainly is easier on the phone. Cheaper, too. You can get spoiled using an iPhone. One thing is being able to watch your long exposures as they accumulate and stop the process when you like how it looks. With a regular camera it is more like film. You can’t see what is going on until later.

Once miss Fabulous arose from her beauty sleep we had breakfast and went kayaking. More on that later.
 
The Bon Ami Rocks are a major feature of Inch Arran. They form a geological extension of the point out into la Baie des Chaleurs. Their position directly blocks the tidal current both in and out forcing the majority of the tidal flow around it, which in turn offers more protection to the local area.
A trip to the Bon Ami Rocks when we get in our kayaks seems the only sensible thing to do.
This is what we did on our first morning at Inch Arran.
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The Bon Ami Rocks extend about 1km or 5/8 mile from the shore. They don’t look that big in the first photo I posted in my previous message.

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We were lucky to have such a calm morning for our first outing. Fabi enjoys kayaking when it’s calm.


Forget about trying to built a cottage on the Bon Ami Rocks. They are already inhabited by noisy neighbours. Besides that, it is classified as a bird sanctuary and you can only get there in a small boats. The surrounding shallow and rocky water thwarts any visits by power boats .

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The Bon Ami Rocks are a major feature of Inch Arran. They form a geological extension of the point out into la Baie des Chaleurs. Their position directly blocks the tidal current both in and out forcing the majority of the tidal flow around it, which in turn offers more protection to the local area.
A trip to the Bon Ami Rocks when we get in our kayaks seems the only sensible thing to do.
This is what we did on our first morning at Inch Arran.
View attachment 147898
The Bon Ami Rocks extend about 1km or 5/8 mile from the shore. They don’t look that big in the first photo I posted in my previous message.

View attachment 147899
We were lucky to have such a calm morning for our first outing. Fabi enjoys kayaking when it’s calm.


Forget about trying to built a cottage on the Bon Ami Rocks. They are already inhabited by noisy neighbours. Besides that, it is classified as a bird sanctuary and you can only get there in a small boats. The surrounding shallow and rocky water thwarts any visits by power boats .

View attachment 147900
 
We have escaped!
Kayaks on the roof of the car and off we go.
The weather forecast indicated a rain shower in the evening so we wanted to arrive in time to get our tent up before the rain. Then some wandering around.
View attachment 147863
Dusk at the shore. Inch Arran beach and the Bon Ami Rocks in the background.
Early next morning, very still with some fog coming and going.
View attachment 147864

While waiting for miss Fabulous to arise.
View attachment 147865
I have been doing some long exposure photos with my mirrorless camera and that has carried over to my iPhone photography. With the iPhone NightCap Pro seems to give the best results.
It certainly is easier on the phone. Cheaper, too. You can get spoiled using an iPhone. One thing is being able to watch your long exposures as they accumulate and stop the process when you like how it looks. With a regular camera it is more like film. You can’t see what is going on until later.

Once miss Fabulous arose from her beauty sleep we had breakfast and went kayaking. More on that later.
The last early morning image is just gorgeous...
 
The Bon Ami Rocks are a major feature of Inch Arran. They form a geological extension of the point out into la Baie des Chaleurs. Their position directly blocks the tidal current both in and out forcing the majority of the tidal flow around it, which in turn offers more protection to the local area.
A trip to the Bon Ami Rocks when we get in our kayaks seems the only sensible thing to do.
This is what we did on our first morning at Inch Arran.
View attachment 147898
The Bon Ami Rocks extend about 1km or 5/8 mile from the shore. They don’t look that big in the first photo I posted in my previous message.

View attachment 147899
We were lucky to have such a calm morning for our first outing. Fabi enjoys kayaking when it’s calm.


Forget about trying to built a cottage on the Bon Ami Rocks. They are already inhabited by noisy neighbours. Besides that, it is classified as a bird sanctuary and you can only get there in a small boats. The surrounding shallow and rocky water thwarts any visits by power boats .

View attachment 147900
What a beautiful place.... I seem to remember you posting the bird colony before. :hearteyes:

Fabi enjoys kayaking when it’s calm.
Indeed. :mobibabe:
 
What a beautiful place.... I seem to remember you posting the bird colony before. :hearteyes:


Indeed. :mobibabe:
I made a video of me playing the flute at the Bon Ami Rocks while out in the kayak this morning. My debut performance in front of an audience of at least 1000.... seabirds. Yet to be edited.
 
Just after sunrise at the Bon Ami Rocks.
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Just before leaving for Dalhousie I received my new Gobe variable ND filter for my iPhone so I was keen to do more long exposure photography.
The main reason I bought it was for video. You get a more natural looking motion in video when your shutter speed is 1/60 sec, assuming you are using the standard 30 frames/sec. Or 1/48 if you use 24 FPS. In regular daylight they typical shutter speed on a mobile phone would be well over 1/1000 sec., which tends to make motion look harsh or fragmented. The neutral density filter cuts down the light at the lens allowing you to adjust your shutter speed down to the desired level. This, of course, assumes you are using a video app with controls such as FiLMiC Pro.

In this case I was using slow shutter apps like NightCap Pro and Slow Shutter Cam.
According to the metadata for this picture in NightCap Pro, my ISO was set at 22, the aperture was ƒ1.8, with the wide 1x lens, the exposure time was 15.1036 seconds, and the actual shutter speed for each individual image making up the long exposure was 1/16,129 sec. That’s a speed completely out of sight for DSLR users.

I cannot detect any difference in quality between NightCap Pro and SlowShutter Cam. Both save as tiff files. However, NightCap Pro has much better controls. Slow Shutter Cam does not give me any way to adjust the exposure level except by placing the exposure reticle on the brightest area, but even so it is too bright. My preferred way of exposing is to trip the shutter and observe the screen to see when I’m getting the desired effect and then end the exposure before it goes too far.
 
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