Jerry’s Catch-All

WOTANICUS

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With my IR850 52mm filter clumsily held to the phone, a bit of light bleed and reflection. Straight out of the camera and with a quick twiddle with the controls.
 

juryjone

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View attachment 169879View attachment 169880

With my IR850 52mm filter clumsily held to the phone, a bit of light bleed and reflection. Straight out of the camera and with a quick twiddle with the controls.
My main issue is with the center being the only really useful part. It gets darker and “mushier” towards the edge. This is especially noticeable on the higher values. I stick with the 720 and 760, and rarely venture to 850, as here, or even over 900.

This is with a 950nm, and it’s nearly useless.

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WOTANICUS

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Yes, its almost impossible to see anything unless its in full sun (early evening here). Tried using LRM to take the shot, but ill need to check the settings first. On the plus side, I knocked up a simple filter holder with a 52mm step up ring and a cardboard box! I just put the phone in the back and it excludes most of the glare.

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View attachment 169888
Yes, its almost impossible to see anything unless its in full sun (early evening here). Tried using LRM to take the shot, but ill need to check the settings first. On the plus side, I knocked up a simple filter holder with a 52mm step up ring and a cardboard box! I just put the phone in the back and it excludes most of the glare.

View attachment 169889
I have an IR720 Filter that fits onto my Moment x2 lens using their 62mm adapter that’s on the end. I bought it about 2 years ago and never got around to trying it out. Perhaps now with this chatter I need to have a go.
 

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Up the Street

Snapseed, 760NM IR filter, iColorama

I still wish IR filters would darken the blues significantly, so I masked the sky and darkened it in iColorama.

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What camera app are you using to take the photo? Doesn’t it usually require a long exposure?
 

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Back on July 21 I posted images on “Qualities of an IR Photo” - the greens turn white, the blues turn black. Back in the day, this wasn’t accomplished with a filter. The film picked up wavelengths of light that the eye couldn’t see.

With the advent of digital, people had to get their cameras modified with special sensors that would also “see” those wavelengths. Now, for true IR, you had to have not just special film, but a special camera, only good for IR. That’s not possible for phone cameras.

IR filters are an attempt to approximate what IR sensors do, using only visible light. A red filter blocks out blue, making it darker, and lets in more green light. Afterwards, you have to indulge in post-processing to do more work that the IR film or sensor would do.

Here’s my shot from yesterday, straight out of the camera with the filter.

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As I was googling the IR filters I saw the colors red, green and blue, mostly. I sort of surmised that the red would be the one that best mimics infrared. Put me in mind of doing some experimenting with Snapseed black and white with the filter options. So far, I’ve figured out your have to start there to have the filters work. ( :rolleyes: )

As an aside, I do know I bought a couple of rolls of infrared film when I was “rolling” and developing my own. I have some of the images from those days, but none of the infrared ones. I do remember I had a heck of a time developing them because they had to be loaded in absolute darkness, no red or amber light. I found that very frustrating. Maybe none of them survived.

Edit: I having second thoughts about buying. Some are red and some look almost black. Most have lousy reviews.
 
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What camera app are you using to take the photo? Doesn’t it usually require a long exposure?
I’m using the standard iOS camera app. As I said, sometimes the longer exposure needed flips me into night mode.
 

WOTANICUS

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Star - using an Ir filter is a bit of a pain, as Juryjone says, the camera goes into might mode and exposure time goes up. The real IR filters are nearly black, the RGB ones are additive and subtractive filters, mostly for mono work. To get true IR effects, you need a camera adjusted to full spectrum sensitivity. A screw on filter will approximate the effect, but only after considerable post work in Lightroom or similar. I'm taking my IR filter with camera and phone on a vacation this weekend, to see what I cannget from it, but you need strong sunlight for the best effect and its predicted clouds
 

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An IR Tutorial

As has been said here, an IR filter only approximates what IR film or a dedicated IR sensor can do. Depending on the quality of the filter, it can also degrade your image with vignetting and elimination of detail. If I’m going to have an approximation anyway, then why not take the best original image I can and then do an IR approximation in post-processing?

The natural first attempt is to go into an app like Snapseed, which allows you to use a red filter in its B&W feature. If you look at an IR filter, you see it’s red. But this, while darkening the blue sky appropriately, doesn’t brighten the very green foliage enough.

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So, the next attempt leads you to an app that allows you to treat the luminance of colors differently. One such app is Lightroom. Under the Color settings is a button for B&W, as well as a Color Mix button.

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You choose the colors and adjust the Luminance slider for each. I take the Blue slider way down, the Cyan down slightly, the Yellow up slightly, and the Green all the way up.

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IR film also gives a bit of glow to the image. While Snapseed’s Glamour Glow is very nice, I prefer to use iColorama‘s Effects>Glow. I usually use it at about 15-20% opacity, but this could handle 50%. I also, for this image, warmed it slightly with the Temperature slider.

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So here’s my finished image. I am happy with this approximation. I realize that most IR purists would not be.

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Star - using an Ir filter is a bit of a pain, as Juryjone says, the camera goes into might mode and exposure time goes up. The real IR filters are nearly black, the RGB ones are additive and subtractive filters, mostly for mono work. To get true IR effects, you need a camera adjusted to full spectrum sensitivity. A screw on filter will approximate the effect, but only after considerable post work in Lightroom or similar. I'm taking my IR filter with camera and phone on a vacation this weekend, to see what I cannget from it, but you need strong sunlight for the best effect and its predicted clouds
I did shoot analog IR film back in the day. I get that this is an approximation. I just like to mess around and frankly I like the way juryjone Jerry’s images and the others look and think that look might add to some of my collages. In fact I’ve used a couple that I made using a “IR“ combo in Hipsta. One image I used is posted. To see the sort of collages I do you’ll have to look at my 52. I have invaded Jerry’s thread enough. :D
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IR film also gives a bit of glow to the image. While Snapseed’s Glamour Glow is very nice, I prefer to use iColorama‘s Effects>Glow. I usually use it at about 15-20% opacity, but this could handle 50%. I also, for this image, warmed it slightly with the Temperature slider.

View attachment 169915

So here’s my finished image. I am happy with this approximation. I realize that most IR purists would not be.

View attachment 169916
Thanks Jerry! Snapseed was my immediate thought. I tried the red filter and saved it, thinking I would double the effect. There was no change. Odd, I thought. I use to use Lightroom on my Mac, but haven‘t much messed with the mobile LR.
 

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Thanks Jerry! Snapseed was my immediate thought. I tried the red filter and saved it, thinking I would double the effect. There was no change. Odd, I thought.
That’s because there is no color left after the first pass for the colored filters to work on.
 

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Instant Tableau

ScanThing, SuperimposeX, iColorama

The App Store’s App of the Day yesterday was Scan Thing. In addition to creating PDFs and scanning text for you to cut and paste, it quickly and easily removes the background from objects. They are saved as a PNG with transparent background, making quick collages possible. The shadows were added in SuperimposeX.

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I’m Outta Here

NeuraShot, Snapseed, Decim8, iArtwork, Freemix, iColorama, ReType

Experimentation gone wild. Test shot taken with a new camera app, NeuraShot, which does a credible job on the “computational“ photography it is meant to do. I’ll look into it some more. Added Grunge in Snapseed. Took it through Decim8, then iArtwork’s Tracing function, which gave the “stuttering” brickwork. (iArtwork is an app much like MetaBrush.) Went to iColorama to add a Freemix object and convert to B&W. Added the banner in ReType.

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I’m Outta Here

NeuraShot, Snapseed, Decim8, iArtwork, Freemix, iColorama, ReType

Experimentation gone wild. Test shot taken with a new camera app, NeuraShot, which does a credible job on the “computational“ photography it is meant to do. I’ll look into it some more. Added Grunge in Snapseed. Took it through Decim8, then iArtwork’s Tracing function, which gave the “stuttering” brickwork. (iArtwork is an app much like MetaBrush.) Went to iColorama to add a Freemix object and convert to B&W. Added the banner in ReType.

View attachment 169991
Hmm, couldn’t find iArtwork.
 

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The Tracing portion of iArtbook does resemble MetaBrush. One uses the Smudge tool to use the underlying photo as the source. There are quite a few counter-intuitive steps to take before you can use iArtbook this way.

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The final image is taken through iColorama to add more detail around the eyes and lips, as well as some additional fine tuning.

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