Practicing macro with olloclip

docsimsim

MobiLurver
These photos are what I did on my first day of using the macro lense of an olloclip. Comments welcome.

A. Painted wooden box unedited
ImageUploadedByMobiTog1382696992.966244.jpg


B. Painted wooden box put through a bit of Snapseed
ImageUploadedByMobiTog1382697279.695612.jpg


C. Painted wooden box unedited
ImageUploadedByMobiTog1382697325.008937.jpg


D. Painted wooden box + Snapseed
ImageUploadedByMobiTog1382697440.126935.jpg
 
These photos are what I did on my first day of using the macro lense of an olloclip. Comments welcome.

A. Painted wooden box unedited
View attachment 44864

B. Painted wooden box put through a bit of Snapseed View attachment 44867

C. Painted wooden box unedited View attachment 44868

D. Painted wooden box + Snapseed
View attachment 44869
Can someone from mobitog delete the last 2 (of the 6) images. They're marked as attached files and I don't know how they got there and can't delete them. Thanx. @Venomator?
 
Can someone from mobitog delete the last 2 (of the 6) images. They're marked as attached files and I don't know how they got there and can't delete them. Thanx. @Venomator?
Job done Simin... :D

Great to see you practicing with different subjects and processing methods... :notworthy:
 
Thank you, do you find the less processing the better when it comes to macro? And I'm defo going to get a gorilla pod now then maybe I can do some better macro stuff. Do I also need some kind of tubing device to keep the phone far from me so i don't obstruct light? Sorry so many questions Veno. It's all your fault for lending me the olloclip lol
Job done Simin... :D

Great to see you practicing with different subjects and processing methods... :notworthy:
 
I ordered this gorilla pod today. Only $6.07! It's not a name brand Joby but reading the reviews it sounds good and will work fine for my iPhone. Total shipping and all is only $11 so it's worth that to give it a try. I love that it comes with a carrying case. The iPhone holder attachment is sold separate for another $5. Lucky for me I already have one so don't need to buy that myself. I'm a big fan of Amazon for whenever I'm looking for anything iPhone, electronic, or photography related! Found my Olloclip on here brand new for only $38! Luck! :)
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B007NFM88C/ref=ox_sc_act_title_1?ie=UTF8&psc=1&smid=ARQJFRRH30M2B

Phone tripod attachment holder
http://www.amazon.com/Cellphone-Smartphone-Tripod-Samsung-BlackBerry/dp/B008BOSOEG/ref=pd_sim_cps_1
 
I ordered this gorilla pod today. Only $6.07! It's not a name brand Joby but reading the reviews it sounds good and will work fine for my iPhone. Total shipping and all is only $11 so it's worth that to give it a try. I love that it comes with a carrying case. The iPhone holder attachment is sold separate for another $5. Lucky for me I already have one so don't need to buy that myself. I'm a big fan of Amazon for whenever I'm looking for anything iPhone, electronic, or photography related! Found my Olloclip on here brand new for only $38! Luck! :)
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B007NFM88C/ref=ox_sc_act_title_1?ie=UTF8&psc=1&smid=ARQJFRRH30M2B

Phone tripod attachment holder
http://www.amazon.com/Cellphone-Smartphone-Tripod-Samsung-BlackBerry/dp/B008BOSOEG/ref=pd_sim_cps_1
Thank you. I'm wondering if i should get a manfrotto monopod as someone just commented that it's more versatile as thinking of you can tilt/swivel it. When doing macro shots I'm finding that I have to get so close to the subject that I block the light. Do you do your shots outdoors? Mine are all indoors so it's very tricky to get the lighting right.
 
I have a Targus monopod I use sometimes. I usually use it for outdoor, eye level or above shots bc it isn't small...my monopod stands 21 1/2 inches at its shortest setting (see pic) and up to 5 ft 10 inches when it's at its tallest setting. There are 2 things I use when I'm shooting macro and need to eliminate shadow....my favorite is this simple, cheap reflector. It's great for bouncing light and getting rid of shadow! And this one is only $15 and small enough to carry in a purse. There's also flashes like this one that you can look into....they can be attached to your phones headphone jack, or you can set it up where you need it on its own to help illuminate your subject and eliminate shadow. This one is only $30 which is a good deal. I've ordered another one that's similar to this one called the iBlazr from Kickstarter, waiting to receive it in December I hope! Another idea for helping stabilize your macro shots....besides setting up a tripod, would be to get a cheap remote shutter to snap pictures. This keeps you from having to touch the phone screen to take a pic, which causes it to move some just from your touch. A great thing you can use as a ready-made remote shutter is the headphones that come with your iPhone....the volume up button on the headphones will serve as a shutter and snap a picture when you have your camera app open! A very handy little trick there! The pictures I've included are from a sight called Photojojo which sells all kinds of photography and iphoneography items! My fav place to shop, next to Amazon :) I've included the link to Photojojo so you can check out some of their items and read about what they're used for. Best way to learn is to ask....next is to research and read all that you can....then ya just practice, practice, practice! Hope some of this might help! :)
http://photojojo.com/store/
ImageUploadedByMobiTog1382729173.127948.jpg

ImageUploadedByMobiTog1382729190.244608.jpg

ImageUploadedByMobiTog1382729202.409800.jpg
 
I have a Targus monopod I use sometimes. I usually use it for outdoor, eye level or above shots bc it isn't small...my monopod stands 21 1/2 inches at its shortest setting (see pic) and up to 5 ft 10 inches when it's at its tallest setting. There are 2 things I use when I'm shooting macro and need to eliminate shadow....my favorite is this simple, cheap reflector. It's great for bouncing light and getting rid of shadow! And this one is only $15 and small enough to carry in a purse. There's also flashes like this one that you can look into....they can be attached to your phones headphone jack, or you can set it up where you need it on its own to help illuminate your subject and eliminate shadow. This one is only $30 which is a good deal. I've ordered another one that's similar to this one called the iBlazr from Kickstarter, waiting to receive it in December I hope! Another idea for helping stabilize your macro shots....besides setting up a tripod, would be to get a cheap remote shutter to snap pictures. This keeps you from having to touch the phone screen to take a pic, which causes it to move some just from your touch. A great thing you can use as a ready-made remote shutter is the headphones that come with your iPhone....the volume up button on the headphones will serve as a shutter and snap a picture when you have your camera app open! A very handy little trick there! The pictures I've included are from a sight called Photojojo which sells all kinds of photography and iphoneography items! My fav place to shop, next to Amazon :) I've included the link to Photojojo so you can check out some of their items and read about what they're used for. Best way to learn is to ask....next is to research and read all that you can....then ya just practice, practice, practice! Hope some of this might help! :)
http://photojojo.com/store/
View attachment 44881
View attachment 44882
View attachment 44883
Thanks so much Brandy, very useful info. When I was reading on macro photography they said it's best the subject is not directly lit and flash comes out as white circles when using olloclip. So would the flash in the above link be ok for macro shots? I just keep the light behind me, that's why I need a monopod and glif so I can be far from the subject and take the photo using my headphones. I only found out yesterday that the headphones double up as snapper lol.
 
These photos are what I did on my first day of using the macro lense of an olloclip. Comments welcome.

A. Painted wooden box unedited
View attachment 44864

B. Painted wooden box put through a bit of Snapseed
View attachment 44867

C. Painted wooden box unedited
View attachment 44868

D. Painted wooden box + Snapseed
View attachment 44869
Great textures, and I love the abstractness of both of these! Like the Snapseed version of the first one, and the unedited version of the second... :thumbs:
 
Great textures, and I love the abstractness of both of these! Like the Snapseed version of the first one, and the unedited version of the second... :thumbs:
Thanks Cat, yes i think you're right. Second one doesn't really need editing as the colours are vivid enough unedited.
 
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More shots from first day of olloclip macro practice. All comments welcome

A. Ten pence coin unedited, as you can see, my shadow means the lower part is dark
ImageUploadedByMobiTog1382873426.123833.jpg


B. Ten pence coin edited in Snapseed to brighten the lower part of the image. I'm wondering if editing it in Snapseed is making it more grainy?
ImageUploadedByMobiTog1382873466.922173.jpg


C. Ten pence coin edited on snapseed to brighten and put through drama in Snapseed, which defo makes it more grainy as we all know.
ImageUploadedByMobiTog1382873504.555337.jpg
 
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Sorry, Mobitog posted this last photo twice. Naughty Mobitog :)
Presto change-o and all is fixo-ed. o_O :thumbs:

More shots from first day of olloclip macro practice. All comments welcome

A. Ten pence coin unedited, as you can see, my shadow means the lower part is dark
View attachment 44974

B. Ten pence coin edited in Snapseed to brighten the lower part of the image. I'm wondering if editing it in Snapseed is making it more grainy? View attachment 44975

C. Ten pence coin edited on snapseed to brighten and put through drama in Snapseed, which defo makes it more grainy as we all know.
View attachment 44976
It does look like the Snapseed edits are more grainy... Did you use the sharpen/structure tool? It can do that if you apply too much.
 
More shots from first day of olloclip macro practice. All comments welcome

A. Ten pence coin unedited, as you can see, my shadow means the lower part is dark

B. Ten pence coin edited in Snapseed to brighten the lower part of the image. I'm wondering if editing it in Snapseed is making it more grainy.

C. Ten pence coin edited on snapseed to brighten and put through drama in Snapseed, which defo makes it more grainy as we all know.
@docsimsim - Great to see you practicing Simin, it really gives you a good idea what you are up against so you can perfect your processes... ;)

So, my advice is to try and get as much right before you need to start processing, as most processing will stretch the limits on an already overstretched iMage... :rog:

My advice would be to try to avoid shadowing as much as possible by making as much use of available light as you can - you don't need fancy reflectors really,although they serve a purpose, you can just use a piece of white card or a shite pillow case stretched over a card and use it to bounce light back onto the subject by placing it on the opposite side to the light source, it really is simple and effective... ;)

It is certainly worth adding to your practice routine to see the difference it will make - a well lit subject will reward you in spades with quality over what can be reproduced with Apps, however good they are... :D

 
Presto change-o and all is fixo-ed. o_O :thumbs:


It does look like the Snapseed edits are more grainy... Did you use the sharpen/structure tool? It can do that if you apply too much.
I'm almost sure I didn't use sharpen, I think just increasing the light caused the grainy-ness. PS thankee muchly for the fixing @RoseCat ;)
 
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Rog's advice regarding lighting is spot on. :thumbs: Several times I've staged a shot in my bathroom because I have the best light there, and a white countertop. :)
 
@docsimsim - Great to see you practicing Simin, it really gives you a good idea what you are up against so you can perfect your processes... ;)

So, my advice is to try and get as much right before you need to start processing, as most processing will stretch the limits on an already overstretched iMage... :rog:

My advice would be to try to avoid shadowing as much as possible by making as much use of available light as you can - you don't need fancy reflectors really,although they serve a purpose, you can just use a piece of white card or a shite pillow case stretched over a card and use it to bounce light back onto the subject by placing it on the opposite side to the light source, it really is simple and effective... ;)

It is certainly worth adding to your practice routine to see the difference it will make - a well lit subject will reward you in spades with quality over what can be reproduced with Apps, however good they are... :D

Thank you for the advice Roger. Yes I think I'll improvise with a big white sheet of paper placed at the side of the subject I'm shooting as the light is on my back.
 
Love my Olloclip. This one backlit by the sun with leaf taped flat to window...

scott-collins-iphoneography-tender-underside1.JPG


iPhone 5, ProCamera, Olloclip close-up lens, original image (no post processing)
Thanx Scot, you have just given me a massive boost re ideas of how to shoot with olliclip. I've been sticking to the advice I read that the light should be behind me and i should never shoot macro with the light behind the subject like this! Obviously that advice is a load of rubbish, as your beautiful photo illustrates :)
Also I found Procamera+ olloclip combo didn't work, so I used naked iPhone 4S camera. Must try again!
 
Thanx Scot, you have just given me a massive boost re ideas of how to shoot with olliclip. I've been sticking to the advice I read that the light should be behind me and i should never shoot macro with the light behind the subject like this! Obviously that advice is a load of rubbish, as your beautiful photo illustrates :)
@docsimsim - Actually Simin, the light should really be on the subject, as much as you can get it, for Macro... :rog:

There is no need, as a general rule, to have light behind you in Macro and it is only a general rule for the wider photography application as much as sticking to the thirds rule is... ;)

Because your lens will always be so close to the subject in Macro it is always best to position the light where it best suits the subject, depending on contours and other factors, but if you have the light behind you it will be nearly impossible to get enough light on your subject to bring out the detail... :D
 
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