MobiColour RESULT: MC #129 Theme: Movement - July 16-22, 2018

HipstamaticPhoto-553636252.587205.JPG

Distracted Driving
Hipstamatic
 
Last edited:
terse said:
What dscheff said! It does look a lot smoother than the usual Slow Shutter Cam results I get. Do you remember your settings at all?
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I made several photos using NightCap Pro, SlowShutter and Slow Shutter Cam. They all suffer to some degree from the same multi-image stutter effect. In this case I think the low light level was helping me, and perhaps the speed of the torrent, and maybe the direction of movement (away from me). I was using the polarizer primarily to improve colour by reducing reflections but it also serves to cut the light by about 1&2/3 stops. I was finding longer exposures, like 15 or 30 seconds, completely removed any water details and made it look like mush so I made most of my exposures between 1/2 and 2 seconds. All at ISO 20. Looking at the metadata of Slow Shutter Cam photos made at this particular view most are 2 seconds or shorter.
I didn’t find any advantage to using one app over another, besides whichever one you get the most used to using.
I also checked the metadata of some of the HDR brackets I made with PureShot at ISO 20. Even at 1/200 sec the water shows noticeable motion blur. So at ISO 20 in this low-light condition even the individual frames of the multi-frame Slow Shutter Cam Photos should have shown motion blur. With no hard edges the individual frames don’t show up. I’m guessing that this means in order for the Slow Shutter Cam to produce a smooth result it would require the light level to be low enough that even the individual frames have motion blur.
At this location hikers are confined to a fairly sturdy boardwalk with 2x6” handrails to keep people on the trail as it follows the gorge. The limited passing room makes a tripod awkward for other people going by. So, I was using a 10” bar clamp to which I had attached a regular camera ball head. I can attach it outside of the railing so as to eliminate problems with passing hikers. But when anybody was walking nearby I could feel the boardwalk shake a bit so I had to wait for times no hikers were passing by.
 
FundyBrian said:
I made several photos using NightCap Pro, SlowShutter and Slow Shutter Cam. They all suffer to some degree from the same multi-image stutter effect. In this case I think the low light level was helping me, and perhaps the speed of the torrent, and maybe the direction of movement (away from me). I was using the polarizer primarily to improve colour by reducing reflections but it also serves to cut the light by about 1&2/3 stops. I was finding longer exposures, like 15 or 30 seconds, completely removed any water details and made it look like mush so I made most of my exposures between 1/2 and 2 seconds. All at ISO 20. Looking at the metadata of Slow Shutter Cam photos made at this particular view most are 2 seconds or shorter.
I didn’t find any advantage to using one app over another, besides whichever one you get the most used to using.
I also checked the metadata of some of the HDR brackets I made with PureShot at ISO 20. Even at 1/200 sec the water shows noticeable motion blur. So at ISO 20 in this low-light condition even the individual frames of the multi-frame Slow Shutter Cam Photos should have shown motion blur. With no hard edges the individual frames don’t show up. I’m guessing that this means in order for the Slow Shutter Cam to produce a smooth result it would require the light level to be low enough that even the individual frames have motion blur.
At this location hikers are confined to a fairly sturdy boardwalk with 2x6” handrails to keep people on the trail as it follows the gorge. The limited passing room makes a tripod awkward for other people going by. So, I was using a 10” bar clamp to which I had attached a regular camera ball head. I can attach it outside of the railing so as to eliminate problems with passing hikers. But when anybody was walking nearby I could feel the boardwalk shake a bit so I had to wait for times no hikers were passing by.
Click to expand...
Thank you Brian. The 10" bar clamp device sounds like a great idea. I use a gorilla pod, and a larger bendy-leg tripod, to "securely" attach to poles, handrails, and other objects, but I am still bordering on panic when someone walks by and everything shakes. In my minds eye I see my iPhone plummeting to its death on the rocks below. Ugh. Now I won't sleep tonight ;)
 
FundyBrian said:
I made several photos using NightCap Pro, SlowShutter and Slow Shutter Cam. They all suffer to some degree from the same multi-image stutter effect. In this case I think the low light level was helping me, and perhaps the speed of the torrent, and maybe the direction of movement (away from me). I was using the polarizer primarily to improve colour by reducing reflections but it also serves to cut the light by about 1&2/3 stops. I was finding longer exposures, like 15 or 30 seconds, completely removed any water details and made it look like mush so I made most of my exposures between 1/2 and 2 seconds. All at ISO 20. Looking at the metadata of Slow Shutter Cam photos made at this particular view most are 2 seconds or shorter.
I didn’t find any advantage to using one app over another, besides whichever one you get the most used to using.
I also checked the metadata of some of the HDR brackets I made with PureShot at ISO 20. Even at 1/200 sec the water shows noticeable motion blur. So at ISO 20 in this low-light condition even the individual frames of the multi-frame Slow Shutter Cam Photos should have shown motion blur. With no hard edges the individual frames don’t show up. I’m guessing that this means in order for the Slow Shutter Cam to produce a smooth result it would require the light level to be low enough that even the individual frames have motion blur.
At this location hikers are confined to a fairly sturdy boardwalk with 2x6” handrails to keep people on the trail as it follows the gorge. The limited passing room makes a tripod awkward for other people going by. So, I was using a 10” bar clamp to which I had attached a regular camera ball head. I can attach it outside of the railing so as to eliminate problems with passing hikers. But when anybody was walking nearby I could feel the boardwalk shake a bit so I had to wait for times no hikers were passing by.
Click to expand...
Thanks, that's very useful, esp. about the exposure length.
 
dscheff said:
Thank you Brian. The 10" bar clamp device sounds like a great idea. I use a gorilla pod, and a larger bendy-leg tripod, to "securely" attach to poles, handrails, and other objects, but I am still bordering on panic when someone walks by and everything shakes. In my minds eye I see my iPhone plummeting to its death on the rocks below. Ugh. Now I won't sleep tonight ;)
Click to expand...
Maybe your camera needs a safety strap. One of the nice attributes of the Moment case is 2 attachment slots for a neck strap. I always use it when I’m out kayaking.
 
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